Our latest dash cam review is of the Nextbase 222X, a Walmart exclusive ($139 at Walmart.com) front/rear dash cam with some nice features for the price, including a modular design and a 48-hour parking mode. It cuts a few corners but is still a solid budget deal. Read our full review.
We have a new top pick: The Aukey DRS1 ($120 on Amazon) is our best 4K dash cam. It takes great day and night video and is easy to install and use. These high-resolution models gobble SD card space (so they aren’t for everyone), but the video quality sure is nice. Read our full review.
We also reviewed two new front models. The Sylvania Roadsight ($140 on Amazon) is stylish and very easy to use—read our full review. The Jomise K7 ($169.97 on Amazon) offers a nice 1440p resolution and is very easy to use—but what’s up with the phone app? Read our full review.
If that’s not enough for you, perhaps you need three cameras, to cover your front, rear, and interior. We look at just such a model, the Zenfox T3 3CH ($249.90 on Amazon), and find out that fitting three cameras into your car may take a little extra thought. Read our full review.
Dash cam cheat sheet
Our quick-hit recommendations:
Do you need a 4K UHD dash cam?
As 4K UHD (2160p) dash cams have entered the market, we know it’d be easy to fall victim to the specsmanship of a higher-res image. From what we’ve seen so far the gain in detail can vary, but the storage investment is consistently heavy: four times the storage of 1080p, or around 1GB for every three minutes of video. For most purposes,1080p is the more frugal everyday choice. Don’t avoid 4K UHD (our favorite is below), but read the reviews first so you know whether the cost is justified.
Best dash cam overall
Nextbase has just raised the bar for 4K UHD quality and features in a dash cam. Not only does the new 622GW accept the company’s versatile rear view modules, it takes the most realistic, detailed night videos we’ve ever seen—by far. Throw in drive mapping, a wonderful 3-inch display, plus emergency response to accidents, and you have a new big kahuna. Read our full review.
Dash cams are all about capturing the action, and few do it better than the front/interior Cobra SC 201 Smart Dash Cam (currently $179.95 on Amazon). The exterior night video, especially, is unsurpassed in its ability to show details in dark surroundings and it offers a laundry list of features including GPS and cloud uploads. The company even includes a 16GB SD card. It’s well worth the money for what you get—just don’t try to use the cloud functionality with an old Android phone. Read our full review.
Best budget front dash cam
The Vantrue OnDash N1 Pro is our new favorite low-cost dash cam. It’s compact, light, relatively inexpensive, takes good video under all conditions, and has a real battery to keep running if the 12-volt fails. Read our full review.
Best budget front/rear dash cam
The A129 Duo is easily our favorite budget dual-camera dash cam, with superior 1080p day and night video from both the front and rear cameras. It holds its own against far more expensive competitors. Aside from the somewhat unwieldy rear cam cable, it’s all goodness, all the time. Read our full review.
Best budget front/interior dash cam
The most distinguishing feature of the Aukey DRS2 ($150 on Amazon) is its interior camera, which can be detached from the main body for use as a rear camera. Nice, but its best trick is taking excellent video, both exterior and interior, day and night. It could use integrated GPS (an $20 external option that’s $20 on Amazon) and a larger capacitor, but beyond that, it’s all good. Read our full review.
Best 4K dash cam
Aukey’s 4K UHD DRS1 offers great 4K UHD/WDR day and night video captures, is easy to install and use, and it's affordable too ($120 on Amazon). Remember that 4K video takes up four times the SD card space as good ol' 1080p, so plan your storage accordingly. Read our full review.
What to look for in a dash cam
We’ll step you through what to think about when you’re shopping for a dash cam, from video capabilities, recording options, power connections, and more.
- Dual-channel support: This is what you’ll need if you want to run both front and rear, or interior (cabin-view) cameras. Interior cameras are generally situated on the dash cam, but rear cameras are separate and require additional cabling.
- A decently wide field of view: You’ll see cameras with as little as 90 degrees’ field of view, but you’ll catch more of what’s around you if you go for 120 to 140 degrees. Some cameras offer 160- to 180-degree lenses. Note that the wider the field of view, the more fish-eye distortion there is, and more processing is involved to compensate.
- Day and night video recording (night quality is a big variant)
- Infrared lighting is important if you want to assure good captures of nocturnal events inside the cabin of your vehicle.
- HDR (high dynamic range) isn’t necessary, but it does make for more detailed video because of better contrast. It also generally indicates richer color which is part of the movement, if not strictly related.
- WDR (wide dynamic range) is much like above, except it usually refers to only color and not contrast.
- Continuous loop recording to minimize storage requirements. Video is recorded, then immediately overwritten at a specified interval unless saved. Video is saved (protected from overwriting) automatically when an incident is detected. Most dash cams will overwrite older recordings when they run out of space.
- Cloud storage is available with a few dash cams, such as the Owl and PureCam. Uploading to the cloud in real time is a nice hedge against damage and theft—assuming the thief isn’t smart enough to kill the dash cam immediately. It’s handy for those managing fleets of vehicles, too, as incident videos are safely stashed online.
- Self-powered recording when power fails, so that you can be sure to capture all of an incident. This requires a battery or large super-capacitor (see below in “Power connections”). The camera should have a setting that allows you to specify how long the camera runs off 12-volt before shutting down.
Incident recording triggered by impact (G) sensors, or when in parking mode (see below), by motion detection.
- MicroSD card storage. Pricier dash cams bundle a storage card. Some come with larger cards, and some budget models come without. There are often bundles available with the card. One camera we’re aware of, the Owl, opts for hard-wired internal storage.
Something most people don’t consider before they buy is that dash cams connect to a power source in your car via a physical cable. That cable can sometimes be tucked out of the way, but more likely than not you’ll have loose cable hanging somewhere. You can sometimes fix this with a longer or shorter cable (or a professional installation). Keep that in mind as you consider your power options:
- Auxiliary 12-volt power (adequate): Most vendors have stuck with powering their dash cams via the auxiliary 12-volt power socket (also known as the cigarette lighter) and USB cables. It can lead to an unsightly cable run, and the power disappears when you turn off the car, but it’s universal and easy.
- Hard-wired 12-volt power (better): Most vendors offer kits that connect the dash cam directly to a constant 12-volt source in your wiring harness behind the dash. This provide always-on power, but it isn’t particularly easy to install.
- OBD-II 12-volt power (better): Outliers like the Owl and PureCam use the OBD-II connector for constant 12-volt power. OBD-II-to-USB power cables are now available separately (as an alternative to hardwiring kits that draw constant 12-volt power from the wiring harness). I recommend one with a USB Type-A port, which will accommodate any dash cam. Most of those with captive cables I’ve seen are mini-USB. The only downside is a long cable run, as the OBD-II port is usually next to the driver’s left knee, under the dash.
- Rearview 12-volt power (better): Another option that features a super-short cable run is powering your dash cam using your auto-dimming rearview mirror. You can find adapters for this at Dongar Technologies. If your car qualifies, this is by far your best option.
- Battery (or super-capacitor) power: Many dash cams come with super-capacitors, which allow the dash cam to operate for a brief period after losing regular power—such as during a collision. They don’t record for very long, though, and sometimes not at all. A battery gives you a better chance of recording an entire incident, even when 12-volt power is lost. If run time is sufficient, it also allows you to record for a while with the car turned off.
Other handy features
- Phone connectivity is not essential, but can make offloading video and configuring the dash cam easier. We’ve notice just recently (12/15/2020) that phone apps are starting to require later versions of Android. If you’re rocking anything older than 8, keep that in mind.
- GPS: This feature could be the tipping point if you use your captured video to resolve a dispute. Watermarking the video is common, but when embedded into the video GPS info is also immensely useful for mapping your travels. GPS will also automatically set the time in better cameras.
- Parking monitoring: This can mean two things. Running the dash cam continuously in low frame rate mode to save card space and battery, or running in standby mode and awakening when motion or g-forces are detected. We’ve reviewed cameras that have a battery large enough to monitor the car with the 12-volt turned off for several days, but most cameras require a constant 12-volt source.
How we test dash cams
Few people are as well situated geographically as I am to test dash cams. Within two blocks there are major four- and six-lane thoroughfares, numerous bike lanes, joggers, dog walkers, oblivious ear-budded pedestrians, and a major bus nexus serving both public and private coaches. The opportunities for near-accident are endless.
For every dash cam, I mount it in my car, judging the ease and convenience of doing so. Tip: Many dash cams rely on adhesive for mounting to your windshield. Hot conditions can make it next to impossible to remove the film that protects the adhesive. Remove the film in a cool environment, or place it in the fridge for a minute or two before installing it.
I put each dash cam through several days’ and nights’ worth of driving, recording video and judging the image quality. All the dash cams I’ve reviewed in the last couple of years take good daytime video. However, night video is often plagued by murky shadows and headlight flare. That said, quality is improving rapidly with the introduction of new sensors. Take a close look at the night shots in each review.
I try all the features: Buttons, display controls, apps. Aside from rear-view support and GPS, the most salient differences between the products are the interface controls and extra features, such as the lane departure and collision warnings that you get with some models. I try them...and I turn them off. In practice, they usually tell me I’m changing lanes, in heavy traffic, or have just been cut off. Additionally, the collision warnings generally come too late to do anything but distract you at exactly the wrong time.
Note that the one thing I can’t relate to you is longevity, as my testing occurs over a relatively short amount of time. Please check user reviews on various sights and pay attention to the warranty.
What’s next in dash cams
Dash cams have plenty of room to evolve. As nice as dual-channel is, there’s talk about true 360-degree video. Check out TechHive’s review of PowerDVD 16’s 3D playback to see how compelling that can be.